Buying privately is where the best used-car bargains are — and also where the least protection is. There's no dealer warranty and no cooling-off period on most private sales, so your safety comes almost entirely from doing your homework and getting the right documents. Here's exactly what to ask for.
Documents to Get From the Seller
The seller's photo ID:— and check the name matches the name on the registration papers. A mismatch is one of the biggest red flags in a private sale. If the person selling isn't the registered owner, walk away or get a very good explanation.
The registration certificate / papers:— confirming rego status, the registered owner, and the vehicle's details (VIN, engine number, plate). Cross-check the VIN against the one physically on the car.
A PPSR certificate:— ideally run your *own* PPSR check rather than trusting one the seller shows you. It confirms there's no finance owing and no write-off or stolen record.
Roadworthy / safety certificate:— required for transfer in several states (e.g. a RWC in QLD, a safety certificate or pink-slip equivalent elsewhere). Check your state's rules.
Service history and logbook:— proof of maintenance, and a way to sanity-check the odometer against recorded service intervals.
A signed receipt or bill of sale:— with both parties' names, the date, price, VIN, rego, and a note that the sale is "as is" for a private transaction.
Check any Australian vehicle for PPSR finance and stolen status — from $9.95 + GST.
Documents *You* Need to Complete the Transfer
The transfer of registration form:for your state or territory (often signed by both buyer and seller).
Your proof of identity:and, in some states, proof of address.
Payment records:— a bank transfer leaves a clear trail; avoid large cash payments where possible.
9. Lodge the transfer within your state's deadline.
Miss step 3 and everything else can look perfect while the car is still carrying someone else's loan. Read what happens if you buy a financed car to understand the risk.
